Film percentages stand for the amount of light that is allowed through the film. The lower the film percentage, the darker the film.

In order to assess the effectiveness of a solar heat control film, you should examine and compare the window film’s specification, which comprise of factors such as:

  1. Total solar energy rejection (TSER)
  2. Ultraviolet light rejection (UVR)
  3. Visible light transmission (VLT)
  4. High infrared rejection (IRR)

It is also in your best interest to request for a live demonstration to feel the difference between the different types and brands of film for yourself.

Simply call us at 6468 6692 to schedule a visit to our showroom at 913 Bukit Timah Road, located next to Tan Chong Nissan showroom.

Solar energy is broken down into three components:

  • Infrared rays (53%)
  • Visible light (44%)
  • Ultraviolet rays (3%)

These three components combined contribute to warming and is what we refer to as total solar energy.

A number of window tinting companies promote the effectiveness of their films using infrared (IR) rejection as a complete indicator of heat rejection. This is inaccurate and misleading because infrared rays only make up about 53% of solar energy!

The IR rejection rate simply refers to the amount of IR component that is rejected by the window film. However, IRR does not measure the total amount of heat that is rejected.

Total Solar Energy Rejection (TSER) is a factor that explains the total amount of solar energy (infrared + visible light +UV) that is rejected. Hence, when comparing how much heat a film can reject, we should be comparing TSER instead of IR.

After window films are installed, there may be some moisture trapped between the film and the glass. It can take a couple of days for the moisture to evaporate and the adhesive/window film to cure. This is very dependent on outside temperatures and sunshine. Once the moisture evaporates completely, your windows should have excellent clarity.

After tint application, the film may present a cloudy or foggy appearance. This is the “curing” period and is perfectly fine.

This appearance could last up to 30 days, depending on the thickness of the film or the adhesive being used. Bubbles may also form due to excess moisture trapped under the film.  Generally, these imperfections may clear away. Thus, it is advisable that you do not attempt to pop the bubbles as that will damage the film, causing the film to peel away over time.